An island born of fire
Pico is the youngest and highest island in the Azores, dominated by its namesake volcano, which rises 2,351 metres above the Atlantic Ocean. The volcano is relatively young: it formed around 300,000 years ago and remains geologically active. Its last eruption was in 1718. But there is more to Pico than its impressive height. It is also one of the world’s most remarkable wine regions, with a vineyard landscape recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The combination of volcanic soil, an oceanic climate and centuries of winemaking tradition makes Pico unique.
Pico’s volcanic soil
Pico’s soil consists almost entirely of basalt, the rock formed when lava cools. These black, porous rocks are low in nutrients but rich in minerals such as potassium, magnesium and iron. Vines growing here must send their roots deep to find water and nourishment. This puts the plants under stress, but that is precisely what winemakers seek: it encourages the vine to direct its energy towards the grapes rather than leaf growth.
The most iconic feature of Pico’s vineyards is the currais: low walls of stacked basalt that protect the vines from the constant Atlantic winds and salty sea spray. These walls divide the vineyards into small, rectangular plots, giving the landscape an almost mosaic-like appearance. It was this landscape that earned UNESCO recognition in 2004.
The volcanic soil gives Pico’s wines an unmistakably mineral character. Taste a white wine from Pico and you will often find a saline, iodine-like freshness that immediately brings the ocean to mind. This is terroir in its purest form.
The history of wine on Pico and in the Azores
The wine history of the Azores dates back to the 15th century, when Portuguese explorers colonised the islands. The settlers soon discovered that the fertile volcanic soil was well suited to growing vines. The Azores became an important hub on the trade routes between Europe, Africa and the Americas, and Azorean wine was a sought-after export.
Wine production on Pico reached its peak in the 17th and 18th centuries. The island’s sweet, fortified wines, made from Verdelho, were exported to Russia, America and even the court of the Russian tsar. Pico wine was regarded as one of the finest fortified wines in the world.
But disaster struck in the second half of the 19th century. The vine pest Phylloxera vastatrix devastated Pico’s vineyards, just as it did across Europe. Winegrowing on the island collapsed and never fully recovered. For decades, the currais stood abandoned, overgrown with scrub.
A tentative revival began only in the 1990s. A new generation of winemakers rediscovered the potential of the old vineyards. UNESCO recognition in 2004 gave a major boost to tourism and international awareness of Pico’s wines.
The grapes of Pico
Pico’s two main grape varieties are Arinto dos Açores and Terrantez do Pico. Arinto dos Açores is a fresh, aromatic white grape that stands out for its minerality and acidity. Terrantez do Pico is a rare, once nearly extinct variety that has only recently begun to be planted again in meaningful numbers. Both grapes are native to the Azores and thrive particularly well in Pico’s volcanic soil.
You can read more about these distinctive grapes in our articles on Arinto dos Açores and Terrantez do Pico.
António Maçanita’s Azores Wine Company
No story about modern Pico wine would be complete without the Azores Wine Company and its driving force, winemaker António Maçanita. Maçanita is one of Portugal’s most talented and versatile winemakers. He works across several regions, but his heart lies in the Azores.
The Azores Wine Company was founded with one goal: to express the unique terroir of the Azores through world-class wines. Maçanita works closely with local winegrowers, helping them restore their old currais and introducing modern winemaking techniques without sacrificing the wines’ character.
The wines of the Azores Wine Company have now earned worldwide recognition. They combine the saline minerality of volcanic soil with a refinement and complexity rarely found in wines from a region experiencing such a recent revival. Maçanita also experiments with oxidative styles and historic grape varieties, continually revealing new facets of Azorean terroir.
Adega do Vulcão: wine straight from the volcano
Adega do Vulcão is one of Pico’s most exciting producers. The name says it all: these are wines that draw their soul from the volcano. Adega do Vulcão works exclusively with grapes from old vineyards within the currais, grown on pure basalt soil right beside the ocean.
The wines of Adega do Vulcão are raw, honest and full of character. The whites display intense minerality, with notes of citrus, green apple and an unmistakably saline, iodine-like freshness. The acidity is lively and the finish is long. These are wines you will not forget in a hurry.
Adega do Vulcão perfectly represents what Pico has to offer: no embellishment, no compromises, just pure terroir in a glass.
Want to discover more about wine from the Azores?
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